Snowcapped Summer Days

Starting the summer travel in the mountains of Chamonix made for an awe inspiring beginning. Driving into this area the list of adjectives begins to run dry quickly. Nature does not require much of us, just show up and slow down for a moment. These mountains have stretched toward the sky for millions of years onto which snow has been falling on the immense peaks and melted into the glacial streams year after year. Long before we came along and created the trails to walk and the cable cars to lift us into the cradle of the sky.

Chamonix was a short drive from Geneva. They had said the drive would be delightful but I did not expect the jaw dropping moments as I traveled up the valleys. Chamonix has been on my travel radar as a winter location to test my snowboarding skills. Now I am rethinking other locations that have unfortunately fallen into this category. The peaks that raise from the valley floor seem to never end. Montblanc at 4810 meters (15000ft) has a soft rounded top compare to the ragged mountains that obscure the true grandeur of the mountain. Wherever I looked my eyes found it hard to perceive the heights and distances I was seeing.

To see as much of the valley I had time for in this short visit I would make two excursions. One to Lac Blanc and the other to Aiguille du Midi in order to get a closer look at Montblanc.

The trail to Lac Blanc is a combination of steep trail and rocky single track routes that lift you out of the valley. After an initial gondola ride the trail opens up as it winds its way under the chair lifts of the ski fields.

The climb up to Lac Blanc is a relatively strenuous steep assent in which my month long struggle with allergies and a constant cough made for an additional challenge. Stopping for a snack of dried figs and nuts while taking in the spectacular view allowed the legs the rest and my soul to be enriched.

As I hit the first patches of snow I could start to see the edges of Lac Blanc. It was fun to see a fun loving hiker jump face first into the patch of snow at the top of the climb. I did not try this activity as it looked like a practiced maneuver.

Rounding the corner of the mountain in a small off shooting valley carved by millions of years of glacial forces lays Lac Blanc. The gleaming blue-green of the water shows off the minerals and sediments of snow melt contrasted with the endless blue sky above. Set back in this draw of the mountain Lac Banc sits high in the hill pulling the weary hiker to gaze at her beauty. In typical French fashion there was a small restaurant to sit and buy a beer and berry tart.

The town of Chamonix is small and cozy as many alpine ski towns are. Sitting alongside the rushing river filled with bone chilling cold water that has made its way off the mountain peaks. Like me, many other travelers had made there way to Chamonix and the sounds of laughter and conversations resonate from the many restaurants and bars. Tonight was the night I would find out just how amazing fondue in France would be. My expectations were very high and I was relying on a recommendation when choosing the perfect restaurant. At this restaurant they served in a style called Fondue Savoyarde. It is a white creamy bowl of cheesy utter goodness that you are meant to dip pieces of potato, bread and meat. Oh if only my dad was with me that night. I think many of his favorite foods were on the table and then you dip them in the a runny pot of delightful decadence. I invoked his spirit as I tasted each sumptuous bite. As time went on, the inevitable uncomfortable feeling of fullness overtook me and I finally had to say no more and allow the waiter to take the pot of gold away.

Aiguille du Midi can be seen from the valley floor as a very small spike that must be searched for at the top of a very very high peak. Waiting at the bottom of the gondola I was struck by the engineering it takes to put up these structures to lift us up into the mountains.

At the top of the first gondola I was greeted by an overly friendly donkey. He was trying his hardest to get some people food. I watched a nice french man feed him bread.

That queasy feeling you get when the ground falls away underneath you is part thrill and part primal fear. The second gondola leaves the station to go up to Aiguille du Midi is still a tiny structure at the top of an impossibly rugged steep cliff face. Slowly the gondola moves toward the base of the cliff and then it ascends. My stomach was down near my ankles. I love observing my body's reaction to situations like this. A few minutes later the climb is complete and the gondola rests at the top. The observation platforms made my head spin. Built on the edge of the mountain thousands of feet off the valley floor. I don't think my brain ever actually adjusted to the vastness of this place.

Perched on the edge of the Aiguille du Midi structure is a clear perspex box that affords views all around you including a thousand foot drop to jagged rocks below. It also makes you question life decisions as you take the tentative first steps out on the clear plastic floor. That first step out into space was hard and exciting. I would have liked to stay out there longer to enjoy my heart thumping in my chest, however the long lines of people waiting to enjoy the scary feeling allowed just enough time to have a few photos taken.

Next a quick stop in the picturesque lake town of Annecy just south of Geneva was simply delightful. The warmth of the summer brings so many people to enjoy the cool waters of the lake. I knew I must return to the slice of heaven as I looked out with envy on the holiday makers on boats and swimming in the cool water. With a little more time I would have swam in the blue gorgeous lake but I settled for just dipping my toes to cool off a little.

Geneva, with its iconic fountain the reaches a couple of hundred feet into the sky would be my home for the next couple of days. The city I had heard of so many times growing up was more delightful than I could have thought. From strolling down the river to have a drink of a floating bar at night, to the few swim areas that offer bathers chance to layout in the hot sun and dip into the refreshing lake; Geneva is open and welcoming. An easy walk up the narrow cobblestone streets that takes you up to the old part of the city is a perfect way to spend the afternoon, and meeting a rugby playing bartender named Pierre from Toulouse France was an added bonus.

A hotel with a path wide enough to ride a horse up to your room.

Lake Parade is a sight to behold. 15 - 20 trucks packed with revelers, blearing speakers, and house music make their way around the edge of the lake heading for a party destination. Like the pied piper the DJs entice the followers with the deepest base and body moving sound. You just pick a truck that you like the vibe of and walk along next to the slow moving stages. A procession of nightclub like trucks slowly make their way around the lake and I danced along with everyone else. And then there are the costumes. Crazy and fun. At the end of the procession the trucks separate a little more and the party begins and does not stop until the wee hours of the morning.