The warm summer streets of Florence. July 2017

Three weeks ago I arrived back in Florence feeling a sense of familiarity washed over me as I felt the warmth of the city again. The hot summer days bake the large gray cobblestones of the streets of the central city. Warm under my feet the undulating streets and alleyways drew me back in with open welcoming arms.

I decided on an Airbnb space on my own this time in Florence. A space with a large kitchen, a separate space for the living room and bed area. Unpacking into my home for the next few weeks was a fun feeling. With my bags completely empty I headed out to once again enjoy Florence in the hot summer sun that had made everything warm and a bit muggy. I thought it best to get a little food into the fridge, so I headed to the market just around the corner. Returning to Italy knowing how to navigate even the simple act of buying groceries made me smile. I enjoy the adventures of new places but also welcome the reassurance of not having to swim in the unknown waters of a new culture.

Piazza Santa Spirito is one of my favorite Piazzas in Florence, which is why I had chosen the location of my apartment to be close to this piazza. Santa Spirito draws me in for the vibrant community and for one of my favorite restaurants. Tamerò restaurant has a particular dish of Torello Nero al ragu do polpo picanti (black pasta with spicy octopus sauce) that was my favorite meal last year and it was my first meal this year. By the end of the three weeks in Florence I lost count of how many times I enjoyed this amazing dish. A cool glass of white wine and a good meal was a fantastic start to the first evening in Florence.

In preparation for the trip to Italy I had taken some more Italian classes in Carlsbad with my friend Jodina. I really have enjoyed learning this beautiful feeling language. While in Florence this time I decided to take some more intensive classes, starting the first Monday after I arrived. I started what would become my routine for the next weeks; a short workout of strength swim training or running, breakfast, Italian class in the morning, lunch and working my normal job in the afternoon and into the evening, dinner and a stroll after dinner. I arrived the first day of class to the welcoming smiles of my classmates and the warm hand shake of my instructor Thomas. I did not know at the time but I would build a great friendship with Thomas. Around a large classroom table were two Franciscan brothers in the brown robes their order is known for, three delightful and funny Indian priests, three lovely woman from parts of the US and a guy from Porto Rico. I floundered my way through the first few days as i slotted into the area of study the class was currently tackling. Thomas is a delightful wonderful Italian man who I adore. His laugh cracks me up and he has a teaching style that draws you gently toward the language, making you want to learn. Over the weeks we lost the three ladies and the guy from Porto Rico but gained another lady. Sitting around the table with these holy man who seem to exude the caring nature of their order was a privilege. And they were so bloody funny. It was interesting to be able to communicate humor in another language.

While in florence I spent one weekend with a rental car and decided to visit Assisi. I have been interested in Frances of Assisi and the religious order he started for a long time. He spent his life trying to show the grace of God rather than telling people they needed to change. More of a show rather than tell approach to introducing people to God. Remembering a little of the drives from last year, I smiled broadly as I exited the city onto the the small tree linesd roads of Tuscany. I love to avoid the larger highways and told google maps to take the interesting route rather then the most direct route. Stopping at a small winery allowed for a tasting of the nectar of the Tuscany region and also let me meet a huge Mastiff dog of Pyrenees verity. I have a massive English mastiff mate called Buck back in California who is a distant cousin of this hairy beast. Squatting down to scratch this ones massive head reminded me of just how long it has been since I have seen Buck.

Taking the roundabout route to Assisi also allowed me to follow a recommendation of a friend to try the gelato at BuonGusto in Pienza. So I think I ruined my gelato loving life. When you taste divinely inspired foods it makes the normal run of the mill version of that food just not so exciting. The flavors I had was watermelon with ginger and plum with cardamom. I'll give anyone 27 euros to find any gelato place in Florence to beat that. Such a delight I had to return the next day when I visited the close city to Montepulciano.

Assisi, is situated atop a hill and is a large collection of light colored buildings that can be seen from miles away. At the northern end the cathedral dominates with humble grandeur. I followed the winding directions of the GPS into the heart of Assisi and was struck by the beauty. Just for fun I drove out the other side of the town before finding a place to park. I could feel the spirit of this place even from the comfort of the rental car. Deciding to park half way back down the hill allowed for a stroll back up to appreciate the alleys and streets of Assisi, I was not disappointed. The chiesa (church) came into view at each hairpin turn that I strolled. I spent some time last year listening to a book about Francis of Assisi and was feeling a sense of reverence to be wandering the streets that he may have troden. Being a humble man Francis may not have been comfortable with my adoration. Entering the church, passing through the huge doors I was moved and awed. While enjoying Italy I have wandered into many churches that dot the landscape, from small tiny churches a place like Monteriggioni to the grandeur of Saint Paul's Basilica in Rome. I had just entered what quickly became one of my favorites. Long with the beautiful painting of Jesus tragic repose of crucifixion and his birth with mary, I was taken by the stunning beauty of the colors of the entire ceiling. Completely covered in painted filigree in reds , blues, greens, yellows and other colors. I stopped and just gazed. My spiritual walk in the world long ago stepped away from the strict Christian upbringing of my youth and at a time swung dramatically to a purely science non spiritual point. These days I am open to all paths that lead to the truth of the spirit some call God. These days using God to describe this truth has become easier. In this church I was drawn to that spirit. Standing and sitting with the parishioners, and visitors of this church was truly moving.

About half way along the lower church stairs lead down to the sarcophagus of Francis of Assisi. There is space for people to sit and contemplate this man and his teachings. Many of the brown robed brothers of the order where seated on the wooden benches. I slowly walked around the room in reverence, continuing to be caught by the palpable spiritual presence. Making my way to the upper church I again was take by the beauty. I had previously learnt that these places are not meant to be just an offering to a deity, they are meant to move our spirit from the day to day space we inhabit. Seeing the colorful panels on the side walls of the church I wanted to know more about them. So I went to find an audio guide and spent the next hour listening to the explanation of the the life of Francis of Assisi that is depicted in huge frescoes that line the church. A truly amazing visit to a stunning place. I wandered the streets of Assisi for a few more hours before heading back to Florence. For the rest of my life I will feel the gentle tug of regret, finding out a couple of days later that a lovely Franciscan Brother named Oscar from Bolivia, who I was learning Italian with would have joined me on this day if I had asked. I am still sad I did not spend the day with Oscar. He is one of the nicest people I have ever met and would have been a cherished time to have spent wandering the church that is the origin of the order he has dedicated his life to. I have thought about why I did not think of inviting him and realized that am yet to find the self confidence and self worth to invite others into the activities I am doing. I am happy to follow along with others and very happy to do things on my own, but I find it difficult to step into the vulnerable place of asking someone to join my activity. Maybe a sense of possible rejection keeps me from taking that step. It is something I want to explore in the future and be the instigator. The excitement and delight I feel when invited along on an adventure could actually be something that I give to others too.

A visit the next day to Montepulciano with its delicious food, gorgeous streets and breath taking views of Tuscany ended with a visit to the Santa Bijons basilica. Another church that sits firmly in the favorite list. I love symmetry and this square church just makes sense . A cool feature with the symmetry is found by standing in the very center below the cupola and snapping fingers or clicking my tongue. It will echo just for me up to 20 times. I love that stuff.

During my stay in Florence I rented a bike to make the trek to Italian class a bit quicker. I love riding through the crazy traffic down the cobble stoned streets. Not for the faint of heart, I rode every day with a sense of glee. Most of the bikes you see in Florence are crappy old pieces of shit and look like they barely work. This as used as a deterrent to anyone stealing the bike. Unfortunately I was the proud renter of a nicer pretty bike and return to an empty space one day where I had left it while in class. Walking up and down the street 5 times just to check I confirmed it was stolen and headed bedraggled to the bike shop to get another one and pay another 100 euro deposit. Luckily the next day my instructor Thomas gave me a key to the internal storage space of the school so I did need to be anxious for the rest of my time while attending classes.

On the final night in Florence Thomas asked me to go for a run in the Central Park. I am at this moment 2 months out from a 19 mile trail race and am very behind in training. Allergies have kicked my ass for a while and did not help that night either. Thomas went easy on me as we did a short 30 min run. We then headed back to his place were his lovely partner Francesca had prepared a seafood Gnocchi dish for us. The rest of the evening was spent in wonderful conversation with two people I am happy to now call friends. Thomas doing the translations for some of the harder topics, it was simply perfect.

Leaving Florence this time brings up the same sadness that was part of my leaving Carlsbad. The sad tug of leaving friends. Maybe this is what I am meant to learn around this trip. As I walked around Florence today one day before I would leave for Portugal, I was smiling and feeling a knowing gratitude of the fact I had made good friends.

So off to see what Porto, Portugal has to offer. I am sad to leave but will return soon.

Some more pictures of Florence in her majesticness